Christopher Bailey makes a strong nod to military mentality, in a no-nonsense Pre Fall collection that carefully amalgamates the luxurious flair of the Burberry line with the more approachable Prorsum, British and London labels.
The urban utility of the fashion house is ever-present here too as the dark and neutral hues combined with a red topstitching motif and slick brass detailing “scream” Burberry. What is more, the collection’s pared-back shapes nailed the what seems still prevalent seventies nuance as the pants remain flared while the floor sweeping hems make their own statement in concealing the shoes but are definitely complimenting the silhouette in the simplest and most stylish leg elongating trick.
The designer additionally embraced the oversized element as the outerwear had a tough edged look in the classic trench coats, slouchy duffel coats, and roomy flight or shearling jackets offering in this way a contemporary spin on the updated street wear.
Meanwhile, the eight dresses shown although carefully edited to be in tune with the overall theme of the assemblage, at the same time possessed a little “Bedford Avenue Granny” effect introducing covetable sophistication, yet refreshing it with silk, leaving room for many layering possibilities. Bailley is pondering womanhood in a totally “Burbarrian” way; one that’s suggestive but never sexual, elegant without a feeling of trying much at all in fact. Celebrating individuality, the prints are not mixed up nor clashing in colours — as in the majority of elaborately quirky details of fall collections — but they do invite a certain attitude and authentic insouciance as one should never stop traversing the stylistic world in search of new fashion journeys. Utility inspired as the brand’s bold fashion heritage commands or street wear infused this was a collection that dictated a constantly evolving Burberry label which always continues to be reverent of the past legacy but still it decisively draws nearer to the hard modern edge of the present.