Walter Van Beirendonck Fall 15 Review

Walter Van Beirendonck Fall 15

In the midst of Spring, Walter Van Beirendonck has woken up the love for colder days within. At least that is what happened to me upon examining his Fall 15 collection. Beirendonck, a traditionally menswear designer and also part of the proverbial “Antwerp Six” continued his affection to strong graphics and recognisable innovations albeit the assemblage of forty looks has been even more substantial in this exposition, as the nuance of feminine details both in the styling and make up opened up a wider audience for the label.
Since his early collections, the designer has indicated his influences by music, literature and art transcribing all that to each and every detail of his design rhetorics. This one has been no exception, starting from the inaugural look and his powerful communiqué which read “stop terrorising our world” a vocal comment both in sartorial and social level one that could be worn by an enthusiastic political dilettante or just as easily celebrated by an industrious punk rocker teen. It is true that many designers are left to their own devices, appearing cut out from the reality of the world, exercising a private sartorial grammar detached from contemporary life but Beirendonck has established a firm pictorial language utilising slogans as a constructional device to not only make statements but also to underline his devotion to the unconventional.
Split personality accoutrements however fully complete in themselves as true artistic gifts: utilitarian jackets on one arm, plastic ruffled capes on the other. Revolutionary three dimensional fine wool knits possibly a breathtaking testimony to Femme à La Resille by Pablo Picasso and deliberately eccentric print combinations which can readily arouse interest in the energy of the creator-designer. Some might downplay the innovation of the present Fall collection as an outspread mass of absurdity but the “femasculine” direction of the designs together with the penetrating social message of the well-defined vociferations give the whole composition the virtue of an intense study of new logic that gives the illogical an entirely fresh symmetrical balance of “EXPLICIT BEAUTY

Walter Van Beirendonck Fall 15