Girls like September swallows assembling together, merging and blending, twittering and making ostentatious flights in a mounting excitement over the open late 40’s field that Roksanda painted for us this season. Abstract expressionism could have been the theme of this Roksanda AW15 collection but the designer herself granted as her starting point the impenetrable world of feelings and emotions.
Her previous Spring move into retail was and still is interpreted into a flame of majestically sharp hues. From the brightest cantaloupe orange to deep empire blue and pulsing aubergine, the audacious shades astutely channeled Roksanda’s love for colour into a homage to the classic model of curvaceous elegant femininity. Fur details also became an all powerful stylistic tool in contrast to her usually spare accessorising aesthetic but that is the very ability of a designer that is to move forward while remaining faithful and accurate to one’s creative character.
In contrast to the punchy brights though, Ilincic seemed to step out of an accordant whimsicallity and sent out her message loud and clear woven in a patchwork of artful melancholia. The entire cast of models could be dramatic binaries of Elsa Schneider in Indy’s Last Crusade, sinister yet beautiful, antagonistic but in reality martyred. All contradictions constant with the designer’s sartorial dichotomies, without falling into fashion week’s frequent try-hard follies.
Ultimately, there is no perpetual state of spontaneous glamour in the Roskandian improvisation of her expressionistic pieces. She never seizes, till now, to convey a sensation of mind through freely combined shapes, colours and adornments. On the contrary, the designer gracefully stays far from imprisoning the senses for the mere sake of representing something de facto. Her equal passion for order and constructivism though can be experienced in her unique fabric manipulation and monumentality of colour employment. It would be safe to say this was her sterling season both about craftsmanship and artful sophistication.